Ostuni’s daring transformation breathes fresh life into beloved Upper Richmond Road spot

Opening nights reveal whether a restaurant’s ambitions match reality. When Ostuni threw open its doors on Tuesday, the question hanging over Upper Richmond Road wasn’t just whether the food would be good – it was whether Putney could support a premium Italian after La Casa Mia’s struggle to survive in the mid-market.

The transformation from La Casa Mia represents more than a rebrand. Where bright yellow signage once announced neighbourhood informality (you can still see the sign peeking out), dark grey and gold styling now signals upmarket ambitions. Inside, the cheerful casualness has given way to sophisticated intimacy: textured blue walls with deliberate gaps revealing brickwork beneath, warm wood accents, rustic beams overhead, and thoughtfully positioned lighting that creates atmosphere without sacrificing warmth. Though the temperature ran slightly cool on opening night, the environment felt genuinely inviting.

A Tuesday that felt like Saturday

The clearest validation: they ran out of tables on a Tuesday evening. The dining room filled steadily with a mix of loyal supporters celebrating the reopening and new diners drawn by the buzz. It was the genuine pull of a restaurant people want to succeed.

The menu signals serious intent. Homemade pasta forms the foundation, with dishes available in both starter and main course portions. The pappardelle al ragù showcases what proper technique achieves: wide ribbons of handmade pasta served with rich ragù of hand-minced pork and veal, simmered in Italian tomato sauce. The pasta with homemade sausage in casarecce delivers bold, satisfying flavour – the kind that comes from quality ingredients and skilled preparation.

The saltimbocca alla romana demonstrated confident handling of a Roman classic: veal escalope layered with Parma ham and fresh sage, gently cooked in white wine. The dish arrived properly executed, with the delicate balance of flavours that separates competent cooking from genuine skill.

Pricing sits in the premium-but-reasonable zone: pasta starters from £9.50-£14.50, mains £13.50-£18.50. Main courses span from whole baby chicken at £18.50 to vitello alla milanese and tagliata di manzo at £24.50. The menu is broad but manages range without losing focus – classic dishes executed properly rather than innovation for its own sake.

The bruschetta al pomodoro starter proved simple and satisfying, the kind of dish that reveals quality through restraint. Across four pasta dishes, consistency remained impressive.

Opening night realism

The menu (still on temporary printed sheets while permanent menus arrive) lists an impressive selection of desserts, but the tiramisu wasn’t ready – one of several elements not quite finished for opening night.

Other growing pains revealed themselves: music system needs refinement (tinny speakers and volume that competed rather than complemented), lighting required real-time adjustment, and the payment system failed entirely – forcing diners to transfer directly to the owner’s bank account, at least revealing why the restaurant bears his name.

It didn’t matter. The front-of-house team handled a packed opening night with friendly professionalism. Attentive without hovering, they managed the delicate balance between celebration and service. Despite teething troubles, they responded with good humour and grace – the kind of recovery that builds loyalty.

The upmarket move

Ostuni represents a calculated risk. La Casa Mia earned strong reviews but struggled as an affordable neighbourhood Italian. Based on opening night, the gamble appears sound. For Upper Richmond Road, Ostuni feels less like replacement than evolution. If opening night energy translates to sustained quality, this could become exactly what Putney needs: a place that feels special enough for occasions yet welcoming enough to become regular.