The Arab Boy Sunday lunch: Good roast, great atmosphere, limited options

The second stop on our Sunday lunch tour of Putney proves a simple truth about local pubs: the good ones are busy for a reason. When we walked into The Arab Boy on a cold, drizzly Sunday, it didn’t take long to realise we’d caught them on one of those days. A large party had descended on the back dining room. The kitchen was backed up. Staff were rushing between tables with the barely controlled urgency that comes from being slightly overwhelmed.

And yet, somehow, it still worked.

Why we chose The Arab Boy

Unlike our Spencer Arms experience, where availability was the main selling point, The Arab Boy required a bit more planning. We booked through an app, and while there were spaces, they were disappearing fast. When we arrived just after 1:45pm, a couple of tables remained. By the time we left, the place was essentially full.

This is a pub that’s clearly doing something right. The question was whether it could hold things together on what was clearly turning into a chaotic afternoon.

The setting

The Arab Boy is exactly what you want a British pub to feel like as winter sets in. There’s a stove in the corner radiating warmth, holly garlands and fairy lights that manage to be festive without being garish, and that particular kind of background hum that comes from a room full of people enjoying themselves.

The main dining room at the back was packed with that large party, so we were seated in the front section. No complaints there – our table was comfortable, the music was at exactly the right level (present but not imposing), and there were enough sound barriers that you could actually hold a conversation without shouting. It’s a cosy spot, the kind of place you want to settle into when the weather outside is miserable.

The experience

Let’s be honest: they were having a difficult day. General manager Seyda apologised almost as soon as we sat down, explaining that the kitchen was backed up and they were running a bit behind. It’s the kind of transparency that actually builds trust – better to know upfront than wonder why things are taking longer than expected.

The real problem emerged when we tried to order. They’d sold out of the sweet potato and leek tortelloni – the only non-roast vegetarian main – and a fish dish. That left just the beetroot, nut and butternut squash Wellington for anyone not wanting meat.

We ended up cobbling together some chips and starters for family members who couldn’t find what they wanted. They were fine – good, even – but it’s not quite the Sunday lunch experience you’re after.

That said, the food arrived surprisingly quickly given the circumstances, and the staff, while clearly stretched, remained friendly and helpful throughout. Sometimes you have to judge a place by how it handles adversity.

The food

The dry-aged Hereford rump beef (£21.50) – which is what I tend to order, because Sunday lunch without beef feels like a missed opportunity – was genuinely good. The meat was tender and full of flavour, cooked properly rather than just adequately. The Yorkshire pudding delivered exactly what it should: crunchy on the outside, chewy in the middle, the kind that makes you wish they’d given you two.

The supporting cast was more of a mixed bag. The roast potatoes were acceptable rather than memorable. The carrots could have done with another minute or two – slightly underdone for my taste. The cabbage was fine. The gravy, thankfully, was excellent, which goes a long way toward redeeming the rest.

The chicken (£19) was also good, for those keeping score.

One notable miss: the cauliflower cheese (£8 for two, £14 for four) was disappointing. If you’re going to offer it as a side, it needs to be worth the calories. This wasn’t.

But here’s the thing – on a cold December afternoon, with rain spattering the windows, they also do a mean mulled wine. It probably added to the final bill, but it was worth every penny as a warming start to the winter season.

The menu

The roast selection is solid: beef, chicken, pork belly, and that beetroot Wellington for vegetarians. There’s also a trio roast option (£27) if you can’t decide, and an impressive 16-hour slow-roast Scottish Blackface lamb shoulder (£75) that serves two to three – worth noting for a special occasion.

Beyond roasts, the mains include beer-battered haddock and pan-roasted sea bass. Small plates range from hummus to king prawns. The dessert menu caught my eye – sticky toffee pudding, chocolate brownie, and a mulled wine poached pear that sounded perfect for the season.

One thing worth mentioning for all pubs, not just this one: there’s often a gap in the market for lighter options. A hearty soup, a warming broth, a ragout – something filling but not as heavy as a full roast. Most families have at least one person looking for exactly that. But that’s a broader observation, not specific to The Arab Boy.

Children’s roasts are available at half the adult price.

The damage

More expensive than the Spencer Arms, though the mulled wine certainly contributed to that. The beef roast at £21.50 is a few pounds more than average, but you’re getting dry-aged Hereford rump, not generic beef. For a family of four with drinks and a few extras to cover the menu gaps, expect to pay Putney prices. You know what that means.

The Arab Boy is located at 289 Upper Richmond Road, SW15 6SP. Visit thearabboyputney.co.uk or follow @thearabboysw15